What do I put under my liner when I build my pond to pad it?
There is a product called underlayment that is used for padding under the rubber liner. This heavy fabric protects the liner from puncture during installation. An alternative is to use underlayment as padding just for the sides and a layer of sand on the bottom of the pond. The layer of sand needs to be about two inches deep for adequate protection. In lieu of the underlayment, a half-inch layer of wet newspaper on the sides of the pond works well as a substitute.
[ TOP ]
How much does liner weigh?
Liner weighs about 0.285 lb. per square foot.
standard 45 mil EPDM-II is the liner
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
alternative energy --
Let me start off by saying we (my family and I) live completely, 100% “off of the grid and are completely self sufficient”
There are no utility lines, no water lines, no roads, tv, cell service, etc. on our ranch. EVERYTHING needed is produced here. All electricity comes from 27 solar panels, 2 main wind gens and a back hydrogen generator if needed (typically we can last 9 days with all luxuries of sunless windless weather, hasn't happened yet). Water is caught and storaged from the rain. Hot water is made with solar batch water heaters with an on-demand hydrogen hot water heater as backup. solar chimney, solar AC, solar heating, solar water heating (pool and home), solar stove, solar power, wind power, hydrogen powered back up generator, hydrogen back up water heater, hydrogen stove, 2 hydrogen powered trucks, 1 EV (electric vehicle) and satellite internet. Even our vehicles use alternative energy (2 hydrogen trucks, 1 EV electric vehicle converted). Because of this we have no bills, no debt and no mortgage.
Anyone interested can check it out at..
www agua-luna com
Electricity from the wind is one of the simplest forms of alternative energy. i've personally built over a dozen wind gens and currently run all my electrical needs off of 2 wind turbines and a couple dozen home made solar panels.
Basically think of the little motor in your car (the alternator), but insted of it being turned by a belt driven by your car's engine powerd gas, it's turned by the wind.
I offer a step by step DIY guide to walk anyone interested threw the process. You can find it at www agua-luna com or you can email me.
The fallowing steps were taking directly out of a DIY guide I offer to those who would like to run their homes on wind power safely, reducing their monthly utility bills or even selling power back the the electrical companies. The entire guide is available at www agua-luna com
"This manual is based on using a 260 VDC, 5 A continuous duty Treadmill Motor with a 6 inch threaded hub. These motors are available for under $50 from most motor surplus stores. We are getting about 7 amps in a 30 mph wind. In other words, it is a simple, cheap little machine to get you started. "
"ASSEMBLY
1. Place the motor on top of the square tubing and bolt it in, using the two 5/16” x ¾” bolts.
2. Place the diode on the square tubing, about 2” behind the motor, and screw it into position using the self-tapping metal screw.
3. Connect the black wire coming out of the motor to the positive incoming terminal of the diode (Labeled AC on the positive side).
4. Connect the red wire coming out of the motor to the negative incoming terminal of the diode (Labeled AC on the negative side).
5. Center the tail over the square tubing, at the back end. Clamp your tail onto the side of the square tubing.
6. Using 2 self-tapping screws, screw the tail in place.
7. Place each blade on the hub so that all the holes line up. Using the ¼" bolts and washers, bolt the blades to the hub. For the inner three holes, use two washers per bolt, one on each side of the blade. For the outer three holes, just use one washer next to the head of the bolt. Tighten.
8. Hold the end of the shaft of the motor (which comes through the hub) firmly with pliers, and turn the hub counterclockwise until it tightens and stops.
9. Screw the nipple tightly into the floor flange using a pipe wrench.
10. Clamp the nipple in a vice so that the floor flange is facing up and level.
11. Place the square tubing (and everything that is on it) on top of the floor flange and move it so that it is perfectly balanced.
12. Through the holes of the floor flange, mark the square tubing at the point of balance.
13. Drill these two holes using a 5/32" drill bit. You will probably have to take off the hub and tail to do this).
14. Attach the square tubing to the floor flange with two sheet metal screws.
For a longer life span of your wind generator, you should paint the blades, motor sleeve, mount and tail."
www agua-luna com
Hope this helped, feel free to contact me personally if you have any questions if you’d like assistance in making your first self sufficient steps, I’m willing to walk you step by step threw the process. I’ve written several how-to DIY guides available at www agua-luna com on the subject. I also offer online and on-site workshops, seminars and internships to help others help the environment.
Dan Martin
Alterative Energy / Sustainable Consultant, Living 100% on Alternative & Author of How One Simple Yet Incredibly Powerful Resource Is Transforming The Lives of Regular People From All Over The World... Instantly Elevating Their Income & Lowering Their Debt, While Saving The Environment by Using FREE ENERGY... All With Just One Click of A Mouse...For more info Visit:
www AGUA-LUNA com
Stop Global Warming,
2 years ago
There are no utility lines, no water lines, no roads, tv, cell service, etc. on our ranch. EVERYTHING needed is produced here. All electricity comes from 27 solar panels, 2 main wind gens and a back hydrogen generator if needed (typically we can last 9 days with all luxuries of sunless windless weather, hasn't happened yet). Water is caught and storaged from the rain. Hot water is made with solar batch water heaters with an on-demand hydrogen hot water heater as backup. solar chimney, solar AC, solar heating, solar water heating (pool and home), solar stove, solar power, wind power, hydrogen powered back up generator, hydrogen back up water heater, hydrogen stove, 2 hydrogen powered trucks, 1 EV (electric vehicle) and satellite internet. Even our vehicles use alternative energy (2 hydrogen trucks, 1 EV electric vehicle converted). Because of this we have no bills, no debt and no mortgage.
Anyone interested can check it out at..
www agua-luna com
Electricity from the wind is one of the simplest forms of alternative energy. i've personally built over a dozen wind gens and currently run all my electrical needs off of 2 wind turbines and a couple dozen home made solar panels.
Basically think of the little motor in your car (the alternator), but insted of it being turned by a belt driven by your car's engine powerd gas, it's turned by the wind.
I offer a step by step DIY guide to walk anyone interested threw the process. You can find it at www agua-luna com or you can email me.
The fallowing steps were taking directly out of a DIY guide I offer to those who would like to run their homes on wind power safely, reducing their monthly utility bills or even selling power back the the electrical companies. The entire guide is available at www agua-luna com
"This manual is based on using a 260 VDC, 5 A continuous duty Treadmill Motor with a 6 inch threaded hub. These motors are available for under $50 from most motor surplus stores. We are getting about 7 amps in a 30 mph wind. In other words, it is a simple, cheap little machine to get you started. "
"ASSEMBLY
1. Place the motor on top of the square tubing and bolt it in, using the two 5/16” x ¾” bolts.
2. Place the diode on the square tubing, about 2” behind the motor, and screw it into position using the self-tapping metal screw.
3. Connect the black wire coming out of the motor to the positive incoming terminal of the diode (Labeled AC on the positive side).
4. Connect the red wire coming out of the motor to the negative incoming terminal of the diode (Labeled AC on the negative side).
5. Center the tail over the square tubing, at the back end. Clamp your tail onto the side of the square tubing.
6. Using 2 self-tapping screws, screw the tail in place.
7. Place each blade on the hub so that all the holes line up. Using the ¼" bolts and washers, bolt the blades to the hub. For the inner three holes, use two washers per bolt, one on each side of the blade. For the outer three holes, just use one washer next to the head of the bolt. Tighten.
8. Hold the end of the shaft of the motor (which comes through the hub) firmly with pliers, and turn the hub counterclockwise until it tightens and stops.
9. Screw the nipple tightly into the floor flange using a pipe wrench.
10. Clamp the nipple in a vice so that the floor flange is facing up and level.
11. Place the square tubing (and everything that is on it) on top of the floor flange and move it so that it is perfectly balanced.
12. Through the holes of the floor flange, mark the square tubing at the point of balance.
13. Drill these two holes using a 5/32" drill bit. You will probably have to take off the hub and tail to do this).
14. Attach the square tubing to the floor flange with two sheet metal screws.
For a longer life span of your wind generator, you should paint the blades, motor sleeve, mount and tail."
www agua-luna com
Hope this helped, feel free to contact me personally if you have any questions if you’d like assistance in making your first self sufficient steps, I’m willing to walk you step by step threw the process. I’ve written several how-to DIY guides available at www agua-luna com on the subject. I also offer online and on-site workshops, seminars and internships to help others help the environment.
Dan Martin
Alterative Energy / Sustainable Consultant, Living 100% on Alternative & Author of How One Simple Yet Incredibly Powerful Resource Is Transforming The Lives of Regular People From All Over The World... Instantly Elevating Their Income & Lowering Their Debt, While Saving The Environment by Using FREE ENERGY... All With Just One Click of A Mouse...For more info Visit:
www AGUA-LUNA com
Stop Global Warming,
2 years ago
pond pumps 04-25-10
try www.pondmarket.com or call 1-800-577-5605. they have several brands. there pumps are a little more expensive than what you pay at Lowes but I think are a better grade of pump. I have also purchased several at Home Depot but like Lowes they do not seem to be long lasting. I use 4 small pumps in features but have 2 large ones in ponds
--------------------------------------
The check valve assumes a very important role. Whenever the outside pump is installed above the water level of the pond unless a check valve is installed every time the system is shut down the pump will lose its prime. The check valve prevents the water in the plumbing from flowing back into the pond. It’s very important that the check valve is installed in the right direction otherwise it will prevent the flow of water into the pump!
.......................................................
plumb layout
basket drain
basket drain
basket drain
--------------------------------------
The check valve assumes a very important role. Whenever the outside pump is installed above the water level of the pond unless a check valve is installed every time the system is shut down the pump will lose its prime. The check valve prevents the water in the plumbing from flowing back into the pond. It’s very important that the check valve is installed in the right direction otherwise it will prevent the flow of water into the pump!
.......................................................
plumb layout
basket drain
basket drain
basket drain
geothermal energy 4-24-10
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE ADVANTAGES OF USING GEOTHERMAL ENERGY TO GENERATE ELECTRICITY?
Clean. Geothermal power plants, like wind and solar power plants, do not have to burn fuels to manufacture steam to turn the turbines. Generating electricity with geothermal energy helps to conserve nonrenewable fossil fuels, and by decreasing the use of these fuels, we reduce emissions that harm our atmosphere. There is no smoky air around geothermal power plants -- in fact some are built in the middle of farm crops and forests, and share land with cattle and local wildlife.
Easy on the land. The land area required for geothermal power plants is smaller per megawatt than for almost every other type of power plant. Geothermal installations don't require damming of rivers or harvesting of forests -- and there are no mine shafts, tunnels, open pits, waste heaps or oil spills.
Reliable. Geothermal power plants are designed to run 24 hours a day, all year. A geothermal power plant sits right on top of its fuel source. It is resistant to interruptions of power generation due to weather, natural disasters or political rifts that can interrupt transportation of fuels.
Flexible. Geothermal power plants can have modular designs, with additional units installed in increments when needed to fit growing demand for electricity.
Keeps £'s at Home. Money does not have to be exported to import fuel for geothermal power plants. Geothermal "fuel'" - like the sun and the wind - is always where the power plant is; economic benefits remain in the region and there are no fuel price shocks.
Helps Developing Countries Grow. Geothermal projects can offer all of the above benefits to help developing countries grow without pollution. And installations in remote locations can raise the standard of living and quality of life by bringing electricity to people far from "electrified" population centers.
Benefits of wind power
Apart from generating electricity without causing pollution, wind energy has numerous other advantages.
Widely distributed, indigenous supplies: More countries have sizeable wind power potential than have large resources of hydro-power or fossil fuel reserves.
Ideal for generating electricity at a local level: European wind schemes are typically in clusters of around 10 - 40 turbines, providing enough electricity for 4,000 to 16,000 households. Some countries such as Denmark and Germany also have a high proportion of single turbines. The electricity produced by these can be fed directly into the local distribution network, reducing power transmission losses. By contrast, the electricity from larger power stations has to be transmitted in high voltage power lines and travel long distances before it gets to the point of use.
Good for island communities: Wind energy systems on islands can be linked to diesel or solar systems to provide back-up when the wind is not blowing.
Low risk: The relatively small unit size of each individual wind turbine (or wind scheme) reduces the risk of technical failure or industrial action compared with larger generating units.
Energy diversity: It is sensible for any nation to have a balanced range of energy technology, rather than relying on one or two technologies or imported fuel. The energy mix among different European countries varies widely, with some countries more dependent on energy imports than others. The UK and Germany have a relatively diverse mix of fuels, whereas others are more dependent on oil (Spain and Greece), coal (Denmark) and nuclear (France and Belgium). Expanding the use of wind energy will increase energy diversity and improve the security of electricity supply. Energy diversity lessens the international political risks associated with fossil fuel reserves, the volatility of oil and gas prices, and the hazards associated with nuclear power.
Source(s):
http://geothermal.marin.org/pwrheat.html…
http://www.geocities.com/daveclarkecb/El…
http://www.geocities.com/pemnq/windscan.…
2 years ago
---------------------------------------------------
The answer depends on more factors, like what sort of energy it is needed from the device and where do you want it to install.
Obviously, Geothermal pumps are advantageous on plains and places with soft soil, otherwise the drilling of the hole may be very expensive. It is mostly use to heat buildings ecologically, however the initial price of the device is rather high. It's main advantage, however, is the stable output of heat for a very low price (prise includes costs of servicing and fuelling the pump). It is also less disturbing on the scenery
.
On the contrary, wind turbines are effective on hills with hard - rock sub grade, especially close to coast where wind is more-or-less permanent. There are also concepts of mowing wind turbines to the sea, where they will not obscure and disturb the nature scenery. They are cheaper to build, but their output iskinematicc power, converted to electrical. For heating buildings they are not very effective, lessreliablee, since the operation depends on the wind intensity. But they can easily deliver power even on places that are not connected to the grid, like mountain cottages or sailing boats.
.
Level on noisedependss on the device construction
Source(s):
I am Mech. eng.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Clean. Geothermal power plants, like wind and solar power plants, do not have to burn fuels to manufacture steam to turn the turbines. Generating electricity with geothermal energy helps to conserve nonrenewable fossil fuels, and by decreasing the use of these fuels, we reduce emissions that harm our atmosphere. There is no smoky air around geothermal power plants -- in fact some are built in the middle of farm crops and forests, and share land with cattle and local wildlife.
Easy on the land. The land area required for geothermal power plants is smaller per megawatt than for almost every other type of power plant. Geothermal installations don't require damming of rivers or harvesting of forests -- and there are no mine shafts, tunnels, open pits, waste heaps or oil spills.
Reliable. Geothermal power plants are designed to run 24 hours a day, all year. A geothermal power plant sits right on top of its fuel source. It is resistant to interruptions of power generation due to weather, natural disasters or political rifts that can interrupt transportation of fuels.
Flexible. Geothermal power plants can have modular designs, with additional units installed in increments when needed to fit growing demand for electricity.
Keeps £'s at Home. Money does not have to be exported to import fuel for geothermal power plants. Geothermal "fuel'" - like the sun and the wind - is always where the power plant is; economic benefits remain in the region and there are no fuel price shocks.
Helps Developing Countries Grow. Geothermal projects can offer all of the above benefits to help developing countries grow without pollution. And installations in remote locations can raise the standard of living and quality of life by bringing electricity to people far from "electrified" population centers.
Benefits of wind power
Apart from generating electricity without causing pollution, wind energy has numerous other advantages.
Widely distributed, indigenous supplies: More countries have sizeable wind power potential than have large resources of hydro-power or fossil fuel reserves.
Ideal for generating electricity at a local level: European wind schemes are typically in clusters of around 10 - 40 turbines, providing enough electricity for 4,000 to 16,000 households. Some countries such as Denmark and Germany also have a high proportion of single turbines. The electricity produced by these can be fed directly into the local distribution network, reducing power transmission losses. By contrast, the electricity from larger power stations has to be transmitted in high voltage power lines and travel long distances before it gets to the point of use.
Good for island communities: Wind energy systems on islands can be linked to diesel or solar systems to provide back-up when the wind is not blowing.
Low risk: The relatively small unit size of each individual wind turbine (or wind scheme) reduces the risk of technical failure or industrial action compared with larger generating units.
Energy diversity: It is sensible for any nation to have a balanced range of energy technology, rather than relying on one or two technologies or imported fuel. The energy mix among different European countries varies widely, with some countries more dependent on energy imports than others. The UK and Germany have a relatively diverse mix of fuels, whereas others are more dependent on oil (Spain and Greece), coal (Denmark) and nuclear (France and Belgium). Expanding the use of wind energy will increase energy diversity and improve the security of electricity supply. Energy diversity lessens the international political risks associated with fossil fuel reserves, the volatility of oil and gas prices, and the hazards associated with nuclear power.
Source(s):
http://geothermal.marin.org/pwrheat.html…
http://www.geocities.com/daveclarkecb/El…
http://www.geocities.com/pemnq/windscan.…
2 years ago
---------------------------------------------------
The answer depends on more factors, like what sort of energy it is needed from the device and where do you want it to install.
Obviously, Geothermal pumps are advantageous on plains and places with soft soil, otherwise the drilling of the hole may be very expensive. It is mostly use to heat buildings ecologically, however the initial price of the device is rather high. It's main advantage, however, is the stable output of heat for a very low price (prise includes costs of servicing and fuelling the pump). It is also less disturbing on the scenery
.
On the contrary, wind turbines are effective on hills with hard - rock sub grade, especially close to coast where wind is more-or-less permanent. There are also concepts of mowing wind turbines to the sea, where they will not obscure and disturb the nature scenery. They are cheaper to build, but their output iskinematicc power, converted to electrical. For heating buildings they are not very effective, lessreliablee, since the operation depends on the wind intensity. But they can easily deliver power even on places that are not connected to the grid, like mountain cottages or sailing boats.
.
Level on noisedependss on the device construction
Source(s):
I am Mech. eng.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Ponds 04-25-10
The link below is probably the most helpful I know of .....sign up for the free online monthly news letter. they are extremely helpful and offer a wide variety of plant material and pond equiptment.
http://www.pondmarket.com/plants.htm
**************************************…
The link below has especially good prices but not so much plant material.
I highly recommend PONDMASTER PUMPS...they are magnetic drive and usually the only thing you ever need to replace is the impeller..there is no oil in it, the pump it runs on magnets.
http://www.azponds.com/
......................................…
If it is at all possible to install a skimmer you need to....check with AZ Ponds
http://www.azponds.com/Skimmers.htm#atla…
.........Atlantic Pond Skimmer
.............FREE SHIPPING!!!
................Warranty Lifetime
Good Luck!
P.S. I use a Xavan pond liner with a geotextile underlayment.
Most people use firestone EPDM 45 mil but it is way heavy and difficult to place. Both have 25+ years of use.
I also use 24 watts of UV sterilizer to ridthe alge and have a crystal clear pond in conjunction with Pondzyme Plus
....................
http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.…
.............Purpose and Benefits:..........
Pond-Zyme Plus is a heavy-duty pond cleaner, containing five specially selected bacterial strains in a stable dry form. Pond-Zyme Plus breaks down fish waste and dead algae that can cause cloudy water, sludge build-up, and debris that clogs pumps and filters.
Organic matter accumulates in all garden ponds producing a build-up of sludge and causing cloudy water. The five strains of bacteria in Pond-Zyme Plus digest sludge into harmless minerals and water. Pond-Zyme Plus helps pond filters stay cleaner longer, reduces pond maintenance and keeps pond water clean and clear.
Source(s):
------------------------------------------------
http://www.pondmarket.com/plants.htm
**************************************…
The link below has especially good prices but not so much plant material.
I highly recommend PONDMASTER PUMPS...they are magnetic drive and usually the only thing you ever need to replace is the impeller..there is no oil in it, the pump it runs on magnets.
http://www.azponds.com/
......................................…
If it is at all possible to install a skimmer you need to....check with AZ Ponds
http://www.azponds.com/Skimmers.htm#atla…
.........Atlantic Pond Skimmer
.............FREE SHIPPING!!!
................Warranty Lifetime
Good Luck!
P.S. I use a Xavan pond liner with a geotextile underlayment.
Most people use firestone EPDM 45 mil but it is way heavy and difficult to place. Both have 25+ years of use.
I also use 24 watts of UV sterilizer to ridthe alge and have a crystal clear pond in conjunction with Pondzyme Plus
....................
http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.…
.............Purpose and Benefits:..........
Pond-Zyme Plus is a heavy-duty pond cleaner, containing five specially selected bacterial strains in a stable dry form. Pond-Zyme Plus breaks down fish waste and dead algae that can cause cloudy water, sludge build-up, and debris that clogs pumps and filters.
Organic matter accumulates in all garden ponds producing a build-up of sludge and causing cloudy water. The five strains of bacteria in Pond-Zyme Plus digest sludge into harmless minerals and water. Pond-Zyme Plus helps pond filters stay cleaner longer, reduces pond maintenance and keeps pond water clean and clear.
Source(s):
------------------------------------------------
wind turbines = 2 MW 4-24-10
What level of efficiency does 2 MW wind turbines run at?
I need to know what level of efficiency a 2 MW wind turbine runs at? So does it only run at 50% efficiency, making it only produce 1 MW an hour?
--------------------------
For the efficiency calculation the formula
Power in wind = (density of air ) x (turbine blade diameter)2 x( velocity of wind)3 x (a constant)
Power in wind = d x D2 x v3 x c
Notice that the power in the wind depends on the density of the air, the diameter of the turbine blades squared (D times D), and the velocity of the wind to the third power (V times V times V). There is also a constant in there which I'll discuss in the very next paragraph.
What about that constant, C? It's there because what we are really interested in is the Area swept by the blades of diameter, D. The area is calculated by multiplying the number Pi (approximately 3.14159) times the diameter squared divided by 4. So part of the constant, C, is just the constant number Pi divided by 4 pulled out to show us that the important variable in the area formula is D. The other part of the constant, C, can be whatever unit conversion numbers are needed to make sure the numbers come out right. For now, we won't go further into that. The point is that the variables that determine the wind power blowing into a wind turbine are air density, blade diameter (resulting in a certain swept area), and wind velocity.
You have probably noted that power (not energy) is dependent on the velocity times itself 3 times (V x V x V). Whoa! In other words, if the wind speed doubles, the power available from the wind increases by a factor of eight. The diameter is significant too. Doubling that increases the power by 4 times. Faster is better, and bigger is better (if you can afford it and can build it strong enough).
Of course, the wind doesn't blow all the time in most places and when it blows too hard the turbine blades can break or spin so fast they break off (not good when each blade can weigh several tons). In that case, the blades are usually "feathered" to reduce stresses on them and to slow them down. This means we can't take advantage of really high wind speeds.
Turbine Efficiency
If the turbine could convert all the wind's power to mechanical power we would say it was 100% efficient. But as you probably know, the real world is never so generous. To even achieve 50% is unlikely, and would be a very efficient machine. A 50% efficient turbine would convert half of the power in the wind to mechanical power.
Hope this will solve your problem
Regards
For other references
Efficiency Varies with Wind Speed
A given wind turbine has a "design point" that generally defines its peak efficiency at the wind speed for which the system is designed. At wind speeds above and below the design speed the efficiency is the same or less - maybe much less. If a turbine's best efficiency is 40% at a wind velocity of 9 meters per second (about 20 mph), it will be 40% only at that wind speed. At all other wind speeds it will be something worse. That wind turbine will generally operate at lower than its best efficiency, because wind speeds are never constant or average.
The electric power actually produced will be still lower because the generator efficiencies are also less than 100% (generally in the mid- or low-90's at best), and there are further losses in the conversion electronics and lines. But this is true of all power technologies. When all these losses are figured in, you might, if you are lucky, be getting 35% or so of the wind's energy actually delivered as useful electrical energy to the end user in the very best conditions. The average might only be in the twenties.
In the formula above, then, we have to add one more number that I don't show. That number is an efficiency number that would have to supplied by the manufacturer of the wind turbine, or experimentally determined by you if you make it yourself. It will not be one number, but a variable that is a function of wind speed.
4 months ago
------------------------------------------
The 2 MW rating is the maximum output when the wind is at the right speed.
Typical efficiency of a wind turbine is about 20% over long periods, but some do better, it depends on the location.
MW per hour is a meaningless term (like asking how many MPH a car does in an hour). All power numbers are a RATE, the rate of energy usage per unit time. So 2 MW is 2 MJ per second.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1) A modern wind turbine has a maximum capacity of around 2 MW.
2) There are 8760 hours in a year.
3) A 2 MW wind turbine will generate around 30% of its maximum theoretical capacity.
4) Taking all of the above into consideration a wind turbine will generate enough green electricity for the average annual needs of around 1100 homes, using an average demand of 4700 kWh per house based on electricity consumption figures from Digest of UK Energy Statistics
Wind turbines usually operate 75-90% of the time - but not at full capacity.
Source(s):
http://www.windenergyplanning.com/wind-t…
4 months ago
--------------------------------------------------------------
I need to know what level of efficiency a 2 MW wind turbine runs at? So does it only run at 50% efficiency, making it only produce 1 MW an hour?
--------------------------
For the efficiency calculation the formula
Power in wind = (density of air ) x (turbine blade diameter)2 x( velocity of wind)3 x (a constant)
Power in wind = d x D2 x v3 x c
Notice that the power in the wind depends on the density of the air, the diameter of the turbine blades squared (D times D), and the velocity of the wind to the third power (V times V times V). There is also a constant in there which I'll discuss in the very next paragraph.
What about that constant, C? It's there because what we are really interested in is the Area swept by the blades of diameter, D. The area is calculated by multiplying the number Pi (approximately 3.14159) times the diameter squared divided by 4. So part of the constant, C, is just the constant number Pi divided by 4 pulled out to show us that the important variable in the area formula is D. The other part of the constant, C, can be whatever unit conversion numbers are needed to make sure the numbers come out right. For now, we won't go further into that. The point is that the variables that determine the wind power blowing into a wind turbine are air density, blade diameter (resulting in a certain swept area), and wind velocity.
You have probably noted that power (not energy) is dependent on the velocity times itself 3 times (V x V x V). Whoa! In other words, if the wind speed doubles, the power available from the wind increases by a factor of eight. The diameter is significant too. Doubling that increases the power by 4 times. Faster is better, and bigger is better (if you can afford it and can build it strong enough).
Of course, the wind doesn't blow all the time in most places and when it blows too hard the turbine blades can break or spin so fast they break off (not good when each blade can weigh several tons). In that case, the blades are usually "feathered" to reduce stresses on them and to slow them down. This means we can't take advantage of really high wind speeds.
Turbine Efficiency
If the turbine could convert all the wind's power to mechanical power we would say it was 100% efficient. But as you probably know, the real world is never so generous. To even achieve 50% is unlikely, and would be a very efficient machine. A 50% efficient turbine would convert half of the power in the wind to mechanical power.
Hope this will solve your problem
Regards
For other references
Efficiency Varies with Wind Speed
A given wind turbine has a "design point" that generally defines its peak efficiency at the wind speed for which the system is designed. At wind speeds above and below the design speed the efficiency is the same or less - maybe much less. If a turbine's best efficiency is 40% at a wind velocity of 9 meters per second (about 20 mph), it will be 40% only at that wind speed. At all other wind speeds it will be something worse. That wind turbine will generally operate at lower than its best efficiency, because wind speeds are never constant or average.
The electric power actually produced will be still lower because the generator efficiencies are also less than 100% (generally in the mid- or low-90's at best), and there are further losses in the conversion electronics and lines. But this is true of all power technologies. When all these losses are figured in, you might, if you are lucky, be getting 35% or so of the wind's energy actually delivered as useful electrical energy to the end user in the very best conditions. The average might only be in the twenties.
In the formula above, then, we have to add one more number that I don't show. That number is an efficiency number that would have to supplied by the manufacturer of the wind turbine, or experimentally determined by you if you make it yourself. It will not be one number, but a variable that is a function of wind speed.
4 months ago
------------------------------------------
The 2 MW rating is the maximum output when the wind is at the right speed.
Typical efficiency of a wind turbine is about 20% over long periods, but some do better, it depends on the location.
MW per hour is a meaningless term (like asking how many MPH a car does in an hour). All power numbers are a RATE, the rate of energy usage per unit time. So 2 MW is 2 MJ per second.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1) A modern wind turbine has a maximum capacity of around 2 MW.
2) There are 8760 hours in a year.
3) A 2 MW wind turbine will generate around 30% of its maximum theoretical capacity.
4) Taking all of the above into consideration a wind turbine will generate enough green electricity for the average annual needs of around 1100 homes, using an average demand of 4700 kWh per house based on electricity consumption figures from Digest of UK Energy Statistics
Wind turbines usually operate 75-90% of the time - but not at full capacity.
Source(s):
http://www.windenergyplanning.com/wind-t…
4 months ago
--------------------------------------------------------------
wind turbines - what it is 4-24-10
Wind turbines produce what is called wild AC initially, and not usable in most homes and buildings. Normally, the wild AC is converted to DC power, like a car battery by the wind tubines own control box so that it can be used to charge a battery bank of some sort. We have a home that is powered by the wind and sun, our wind turbine was built by Southwest Windpower of Flagstaff, AZ. There are other manufacturers around.
There are 2 primary ways to get the wind power into your home. One is a stand alone system like ours. The wind turbine and solar panels feed into a large battery bank whenever the wind or sun is available. Then a device called an inverter converts the battery power to normal household AC power and feeds it into the home. The other type which is fast becoming the desired approach is a grid tied system. You take the windpower and feed it directly into a grid tied inverter that converts it straight to the electrical grid, no battery. If you are producing more than you can use, the excess feeds out into the grid and is used by your neighbors, and your electrical meter spins backwards. If you are using more than you are producing, the shortage is made up from the grid and your meter spins forward. At the end of the month the meter is read, and you are billed for the difference. These are less expensive and simpler, no battery or charge controllers to buy or replace. The only problem is if the grid loses power, your wind turbine has to shut down, you can't balance your turbiner directly to the needs of one home, the excess has to go someplace all the time. Hope this helps, take care, Rudydoo
Source(s):
Home Power Magazine
Backwoods Home Magazine
Midwest Renewable Energy Association
Great Lakes Renewable Energy Association
6 months ago
---------------------------------------------------
Wind turbines convert the kinetic energy of wind into mechanical energy(rotation of shaft) which is further fed to a generator/dynamo to get electric energy.
6 months ago
------------------------------------------------
Sound energy, when the wind is cut by the blades, and when the blades cut a bird.
Kinetic energy, surely this can kill a bird.
Radio wave, when the alternator turns, EM wave comes out.
Electric energy, usually we target for this.
------------------------------------------------
They produce electricity.
Source(s):
http://greenerways.blogspot.com/search/l…
6 months ago
----------------------------------------------------------
Kinetic energy that is then used to produce electricity.
Source(s):
http://energystimulus.net
6 months ago
----------------------------------------------------------
There are 2 primary ways to get the wind power into your home. One is a stand alone system like ours. The wind turbine and solar panels feed into a large battery bank whenever the wind or sun is available. Then a device called an inverter converts the battery power to normal household AC power and feeds it into the home. The other type which is fast becoming the desired approach is a grid tied system. You take the windpower and feed it directly into a grid tied inverter that converts it straight to the electrical grid, no battery. If you are producing more than you can use, the excess feeds out into the grid and is used by your neighbors, and your electrical meter spins backwards. If you are using more than you are producing, the shortage is made up from the grid and your meter spins forward. At the end of the month the meter is read, and you are billed for the difference. These are less expensive and simpler, no battery or charge controllers to buy or replace. The only problem is if the grid loses power, your wind turbine has to shut down, you can't balance your turbiner directly to the needs of one home, the excess has to go someplace all the time. Hope this helps, take care, Rudydoo
Source(s):
Home Power Magazine
Backwoods Home Magazine
Midwest Renewable Energy Association
Great Lakes Renewable Energy Association
6 months ago
---------------------------------------------------
Wind turbines convert the kinetic energy of wind into mechanical energy(rotation of shaft) which is further fed to a generator/dynamo to get electric energy.
6 months ago
------------------------------------------------
Sound energy, when the wind is cut by the blades, and when the blades cut a bird.
Kinetic energy, surely this can kill a bird.
Radio wave, when the alternator turns, EM wave comes out.
Electric energy, usually we target for this.
------------------------------------------------
They produce electricity.
Source(s):
http://greenerways.blogspot.com/search/l…
6 months ago
----------------------------------------------------------
Kinetic energy that is then used to produce electricity.
Source(s):
http://energystimulus.net
6 months ago
----------------------------------------------------------
wind turbines grants 4-24-10
My husband works on the commercial wind turbines. Yes indeed it it true the companies pay you a lease every year. Usually about $5000 per wind turbine put up on ones property.
The wind turbine companies do NOT buy the land. The taxes would be insane.
If your mother is in a wind zone area, a company might be interested.
Chances are, they will contact you, if they are interested. Then you will get to go through about 10 years worth of court battles with your neighbors, before the project is allowed to proceed.
~Garnet
Permaculture homesteading/farming over 20 years
Husband works on the commercial wind turbines.
1 year ago
---------------------------------------------------------------
The wind turbine companies do NOT buy the land. The taxes would be insane.
If your mother is in a wind zone area, a company might be interested.
Chances are, they will contact you, if they are interested. Then you will get to go through about 10 years worth of court battles with your neighbors, before the project is allowed to proceed.
~Garnet
Permaculture homesteading/farming over 20 years
Husband works on the commercial wind turbines.
1 year ago
---------------------------------------------------------------
solar pond pumps 4-25-10
What is the wattage of the pump?
How many hours will the pump be running?
How many amp hours are in the battery?
How many hours of sunlight are you going to get per day?
If the pump is ran for 10 hours at 50 watts you have 500 watts.
If the battery has a 100 amp hour rating you would have 1200 watts in battery power. So about two hours and the battery is so dead it will not be able to recharge. Never run a battery under 50% discharge. So you will get one hour from the battery.
Your 45 watt solar panel will only be putting about 80% of it's rated power at most into the battery. That would mean it would need 13.8 hours of sun light to put the charge back in the battery.
At a wild guess with what you have you might get lucky and keep the pump running for about 10 hours but you woud have to let it charge for the next day or two to get the battery charged back up.
Don't forget to put a charge controller on the system or you could over charge the battery. You can get one with a low voltage disconnect so it will turn off the pump when the battery gets too low.
Now if it is an AC pump you will have to add an inverter. That takes any where from 10% to 20% more power. So to me you should get three of those 45 watt panels and a good controller and maybe a couple of large deep cycle batteries.
If you pump only uses 5 watts in power to run. You are over powered already.
Good luck,
2 years ago
-----------------------------------------------------
How many hours will the pump be running?
How many amp hours are in the battery?
How many hours of sunlight are you going to get per day?
If the pump is ran for 10 hours at 50 watts you have 500 watts.
If the battery has a 100 amp hour rating you would have 1200 watts in battery power. So about two hours and the battery is so dead it will not be able to recharge. Never run a battery under 50% discharge. So you will get one hour from the battery.
Your 45 watt solar panel will only be putting about 80% of it's rated power at most into the battery. That would mean it would need 13.8 hours of sun light to put the charge back in the battery.
At a wild guess with what you have you might get lucky and keep the pump running for about 10 hours but you woud have to let it charge for the next day or two to get the battery charged back up.
Don't forget to put a charge controller on the system or you could over charge the battery. You can get one with a low voltage disconnect so it will turn off the pump when the battery gets too low.
Now if it is an AC pump you will have to add an inverter. That takes any where from 10% to 20% more power. So to me you should get three of those 45 watt panels and a good controller and maybe a couple of large deep cycle batteries.
If you pump only uses 5 watts in power to run. You are over powered already.
Good luck,
2 years ago
-----------------------------------------------------
pond external pumps 04-20-10
Davey pumps are fantastic and Little Giant pumps are fantastic. I have Davey pumps in the ground for 5 years now and Little Giant pumps in the ground now for 15 years, continuous running with no failures. The two brands you want to stay away from are Hilti and Beckett.
1 year ago
-------------------------------------------
my son uses Beckett and a UV sterilizer in his 7000 gal pond.... without clogging is the problem with any pump... but his wife got inventive and came up with a bucket with holes and 'sock' of filter material and netting that kept theirs running happily for extra long times.....a pond requires maintenance....you can't slide on it... gonna have to change your mind about that part.....
http://images.unfetteredsoul.multiply.co…
-------------------------------------------
lambourghini Supremo 700
---------------------------------------------
- http://www.altestore.com/store/
9 months ago
==============================
I recommend grunfos or sunpumps.
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/list…
The pumps on our site are probably a little large for your application, but if you give us a call we are glad to quote you on a pump and corresponding panel to power it. (877-337-2490)
This one wont run a waterfall but it is a cheap and simple kit:
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/cate…
Hope that helps
----------------------------------------------------------
When you calculate the size pump you need, you will have to take into account the height of your waterfall, or "loft". The higher the waterfall the bigger the pump you will need as the loft slows down the amount of water that is pumped. for a pond the size of the one you have a mag drive is probably not big enough, I would suggest a direct drive.
Here are some web sites that may help you:
http://www.gardensupermart.com/tips/pump…
http://www.pondsolutions.com/pumps.htm
http://www.calpump.com/faq.asp
2 years ago
---------------------------------------------------------
http://www.aquaticeco.com/categories/Aer…
----------------------------------------------------
Source(s):
http://www.bonniesplants.com/how_to/vegg…
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/articl…
http://www.watergarden.com/pages/build_w…
http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/arti…
3 years ago
--------------------------------------------------------
http://pondsofreflection.com/info/index.…
------------------------------------------------------
http://www.pondliners.com/
---------------------------------------------
External pumps really aren't that loud as long as you do some simple maintenance on them every now and then, in other words don't wait for it break down, keep it maintained so it won't break down. But, don't attach the pump to the bottom drain. Let gravity drain the pond, otherwise you'll suck a lot of the muck into the pump system and filter. I would go with the out-of-pond pump, you can hide it very easily behind some sort of facade. And it's just easier to maintain. Once you have your cool little ecosystem in there when everything is balanced you don't want to have to reach into the water and cloud everything up by pulling out the pump. It's always good to have some muck at the bottom of the pond, it's where all the bacteria live and eat up all the waste from everything living in the pond. It's a fun thing to have. Also, one more word of advice. Don't make the ENTIRE pond three feet deep. Make it so that the levels are varied. But, make the deepest part 3 feet deep. The creatures you decide to put in their new home will thank you for it.
2 years ago
----------------------------------------------------
My personal choice is PONDMASTER
they are magnetic drive rarely, if ever break only need to replace the impellers no oil to leak out and worry about.
http://www.pondmaster.com/
Source(s):
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 year ago
-------------------------------------------
my son uses Beckett and a UV sterilizer in his 7000 gal pond.... without clogging is the problem with any pump... but his wife got inventive and came up with a bucket with holes and 'sock' of filter material and netting that kept theirs running happily for extra long times.....a pond requires maintenance....you can't slide on it... gonna have to change your mind about that part.....
http://images.unfetteredsoul.multiply.co…
-------------------------------------------
lambourghini Supremo 700
---------------------------------------------
- http://www.altestore.com/store/
9 months ago
==============================
I recommend grunfos or sunpumps.
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/list…
The pumps on our site are probably a little large for your application, but if you give us a call we are glad to quote you on a pump and corresponding panel to power it. (877-337-2490)
This one wont run a waterfall but it is a cheap and simple kit:
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/cate…
Hope that helps
----------------------------------------------------------
When you calculate the size pump you need, you will have to take into account the height of your waterfall, or "loft". The higher the waterfall the bigger the pump you will need as the loft slows down the amount of water that is pumped. for a pond the size of the one you have a mag drive is probably not big enough, I would suggest a direct drive.
Here are some web sites that may help you:
http://www.gardensupermart.com/tips/pump…
http://www.pondsolutions.com/pumps.htm
http://www.calpump.com/faq.asp
2 years ago
---------------------------------------------------------
http://www.aquaticeco.com/categories/Aer…
----------------------------------------------------
Source(s):
http://www.bonniesplants.com/how_to/vegg…
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/articl…
http://www.watergarden.com/pages/build_w…
http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/arti…
3 years ago
--------------------------------------------------------
http://pondsofreflection.com/info/index.…
------------------------------------------------------
http://www.pondliners.com/
---------------------------------------------
External pumps really aren't that loud as long as you do some simple maintenance on them every now and then, in other words don't wait for it break down, keep it maintained so it won't break down. But, don't attach the pump to the bottom drain. Let gravity drain the pond, otherwise you'll suck a lot of the muck into the pump system and filter. I would go with the out-of-pond pump, you can hide it very easily behind some sort of facade. And it's just easier to maintain. Once you have your cool little ecosystem in there when everything is balanced you don't want to have to reach into the water and cloud everything up by pulling out the pump. It's always good to have some muck at the bottom of the pond, it's where all the bacteria live and eat up all the waste from everything living in the pond. It's a fun thing to have. Also, one more word of advice. Don't make the ENTIRE pond three feet deep. Make it so that the levels are varied. But, make the deepest part 3 feet deep. The creatures you decide to put in their new home will thank you for it.
2 years ago
----------------------------------------------------
My personal choice is PONDMASTER
they are magnetic drive rarely, if ever break only need to replace the impellers no oil to leak out and worry about.
http://www.pondmaster.com/
Source(s):
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
wind turbines 4-24-10
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/s…
A is the most important. The advantage of both is that sun comes in the daytime and wind tends to come at night. The best way to solve the variability problem is to either tie into the grid or use batteries to store the electricity you are not using for a later time.
Here are some good tutorials on how to do this and also understand the variability issue:
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1L02KEKX141
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1YL6V1ZIPVC
Source(s):
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1L02KEKX141
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1YL6V1ZIPVC
------------------------------------------------------
Yes there are many benefits.
Using the wind to generate energy will permit you to be less dependent on fossil fuels, which are non renewable. So you will actually be helping our environment.
Also, there is the economic factor, you will save hundreds each month in electricity.
If you are going to buy a wind turbine for the home, be prepared, because they are costly. A solution for this would be to build the wind turbine yourself. Here I provide you with a link that has more information about that subject.
http://easywindturbinesforthehome.com
----------------------------------------------------------
If you are talking about the wind turbines that are installed on the roof for ventilation then yes they are very beneficial and not costly.
If you are talking about wind mills that generate electricity that is another story.
It will depend on how much electricity you use and the volume of wind in your area.
The wind mills come in several sizes and prices.
The smaller ones produce 50 amps and hour and requires about a 10 to 15 mph wind for max out put. The cost is around $500. However a battery bank and an inverter is need to convert the DC current from the batteries to AC volts.
Most good solar systems have a wind mill as a back up for cloudy and raining days simply because when it is cloudy it's usually windy.
-------------------------------------------------------------
If you have an average annual wind speed of at least 10mph, have at least an acre of land (varies according to local regulations), and are able to have a tower at least 30' above any obsticle within 300' (that means 30' higher than your house and the trees), and are able to spend at least $10k for installation, then owning a wind turbine may be a viable option. If you answered 'no' to any of those questions, then you'll end up with a very expensive lawn ornament.
Here's a link to a series of articles that may be useful for you, http://www.altestore.com/howto/Wind-Powe…
AltE Store - http://www.altestore.com/store
--------------------------------------------------------------
I will agree with another answer that "wind turbines" can refer to a wind powered ventilation system: http://www.google.com/products?rls=com.m… My experience is that although useful they are not always a strong enough or constant enough when needed.
They can also refer to an electrical generation system. Physics dictate that the longer the blades on the turbine the more efficient they can be. So while a home wind turbine can provide additional electricity it typically will not give the return on an investment that a 205 meters tall structure will give. Wind speeds must be a relatively constant 20 to 40 mph but too high a speed is likely to damage the windmill. There are several different types of windmills/turbines: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_turbin… Below is a listing of available small wind turbines.
As with any electrical power generation you have to measure your needs against the costs of equipment and its life expectancy. You would also have to measure it against alternatives like photovoltaic cells, parabolic dish and stirling electrical production, ground source heat pump geothermal and stirling electrical production. Geothermal or a grid connection does not need storage but for the other types a hydrogen electrolysis/fuel cell, battery, or capacitor method may be used for storage and the cost of this would have to be factored in.
Source(s):
http://www.allsmallwindturbines.com/
http://www.thesolarguide.com/wind-power/…
for something just a bit bigger: http://www.pr.com/press-release/5375
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.windpower.org/en/tour/econ/in…
--------------------------------------------------------
personal wind turbines are not that expensive
you can go to www.homepower.com
they are as cheap as five grand.
2 years ago
-------------------------------------------------------
Voters
http://www.windturbine.net/purchasing.ht…
----------------------------------------------------
http://neilsonmatrix.com/greenenergy/green-wind-energy/green-wind-energy.php
-------------------------------------------------------
There are lots of companies that make small turbines.
here is a list
http://www.awea.org/smallwind/smsyslst.h…
The problems these face are:
local zoning laws, which usually won't let you put one up.
Integration with utility power, which is only allowed in some areas and with some companies.
Expense, you can pay quite a few thousand dollars, when you include the electronics to integrate the output with the AC mains.
Wind, most locations do not have a steady enough wind to justify the use of a wind turbine.
2 years ago
-----------------------------------------------------
www.freepower4home.com or at the guides review page at http://www.freepower4home.com/best-of-home-energy-saving-guides-earth4energy.php
Source(s):
http://www.freepower4home.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
A windturbine would actually store energy onto a powerful battery, following which a converter would cough up AC 110 or 220
10 months ago
-----------------------------------------------------------
Most solar panels output 12VDC. You then need some sort of charging circuit, to deliver maximum power to charge a battery bank. Then you need an inverter to convert battery power to 110/120/220/240 VAC. Also, if you are on the grid, you'll need an interconnect switch, to protect linemen from shock if they are working nearby.
You can buy turbines and solar panels here: www.canadiantire.ca
---------------------------------------------------------------
You will need to do some homework research.
The rude answer is that it is $$$$$
There are several options
PV photo voltaic
Thermal systems and as you mentioned wind turbines.
Any of those don’t provide civilized energy! You will need to provide for the regulation (uniformity) of the energy. Thais is where the $$$$ comes in.
The reason they usually are 12V is because they are extremely small in power levels compared tu what we are used to in the city.
Hope this answers your question
----------------------------------------------------
A is the most important. The advantage of both is that sun comes in the daytime and wind tends to come at night. The best way to solve the variability problem is to either tie into the grid or use batteries to store the electricity you are not using for a later time.
Here are some good tutorials on how to do this and also understand the variability issue:
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1L02KEKX141
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1YL6V1ZIPVC
Source(s):
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1L02KEKX141
http://energy.wesrch.com/pdfTR1YL6V1ZIPVC
------------------------------------------------------
Yes there are many benefits.
Using the wind to generate energy will permit you to be less dependent on fossil fuels, which are non renewable. So you will actually be helping our environment.
Also, there is the economic factor, you will save hundreds each month in electricity.
If you are going to buy a wind turbine for the home, be prepared, because they are costly. A solution for this would be to build the wind turbine yourself. Here I provide you with a link that has more information about that subject.
http://easywindturbinesforthehome.com
----------------------------------------------------------
If you are talking about the wind turbines that are installed on the roof for ventilation then yes they are very beneficial and not costly.
If you are talking about wind mills that generate electricity that is another story.
It will depend on how much electricity you use and the volume of wind in your area.
The wind mills come in several sizes and prices.
The smaller ones produce 50 amps and hour and requires about a 10 to 15 mph wind for max out put. The cost is around $500. However a battery bank and an inverter is need to convert the DC current from the batteries to AC volts.
Most good solar systems have a wind mill as a back up for cloudy and raining days simply because when it is cloudy it's usually windy.
-------------------------------------------------------------
If you have an average annual wind speed of at least 10mph, have at least an acre of land (varies according to local regulations), and are able to have a tower at least 30' above any obsticle within 300' (that means 30' higher than your house and the trees), and are able to spend at least $10k for installation, then owning a wind turbine may be a viable option. If you answered 'no' to any of those questions, then you'll end up with a very expensive lawn ornament.
Here's a link to a series of articles that may be useful for you, http://www.altestore.com/howto/Wind-Powe…
AltE Store - http://www.altestore.com/store
--------------------------------------------------------------
I will agree with another answer that "wind turbines" can refer to a wind powered ventilation system: http://www.google.com/products?rls=com.m… My experience is that although useful they are not always a strong enough or constant enough when needed.
They can also refer to an electrical generation system. Physics dictate that the longer the blades on the turbine the more efficient they can be. So while a home wind turbine can provide additional electricity it typically will not give the return on an investment that a 205 meters tall structure will give. Wind speeds must be a relatively constant 20 to 40 mph but too high a speed is likely to damage the windmill. There are several different types of windmills/turbines: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_turbin… Below is a listing of available small wind turbines.
As with any electrical power generation you have to measure your needs against the costs of equipment and its life expectancy. You would also have to measure it against alternatives like photovoltaic cells, parabolic dish and stirling electrical production, ground source heat pump geothermal and stirling electrical production. Geothermal or a grid connection does not need storage but for the other types a hydrogen electrolysis/fuel cell, battery, or capacitor method may be used for storage and the cost of this would have to be factored in.
Source(s):
http://www.allsmallwindturbines.com/
http://www.thesolarguide.com/wind-power/…
for something just a bit bigger: http://www.pr.com/press-release/5375
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.windpower.org/en/tour/econ/in…
--------------------------------------------------------
personal wind turbines are not that expensive
you can go to www.homepower.com
they are as cheap as five grand.
2 years ago
-------------------------------------------------------
Voters
http://www.windturbine.net/purchasing.ht…
----------------------------------------------------
http://neilsonmatrix.com/greenenergy/green-wind-energy/green-wind-energy.php
-------------------------------------------------------
There are lots of companies that make small turbines.
here is a list
http://www.awea.org/smallwind/smsyslst.h…
The problems these face are:
local zoning laws, which usually won't let you put one up.
Integration with utility power, which is only allowed in some areas and with some companies.
Expense, you can pay quite a few thousand dollars, when you include the electronics to integrate the output with the AC mains.
Wind, most locations do not have a steady enough wind to justify the use of a wind turbine.
2 years ago
-----------------------------------------------------
www.freepower4home.com or at the guides review page at http://www.freepower4home.com/best-of-home-energy-saving-guides-earth4energy.php
Source(s):
http://www.freepower4home.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
A windturbine would actually store energy onto a powerful battery, following which a converter would cough up AC 110 or 220
10 months ago
-----------------------------------------------------------
Most solar panels output 12VDC. You then need some sort of charging circuit, to deliver maximum power to charge a battery bank. Then you need an inverter to convert battery power to 110/120/220/240 VAC. Also, if you are on the grid, you'll need an interconnect switch, to protect linemen from shock if they are working nearby.
You can buy turbines and solar panels here: www.canadiantire.ca
---------------------------------------------------------------
You will need to do some homework research.
The rude answer is that it is $$$$$
There are several options
PV photo voltaic
Thermal systems and as you mentioned wind turbines.
Any of those don’t provide civilized energy! You will need to provide for the regulation (uniformity) of the energy. Thais is where the $$$$ comes in.
The reason they usually are 12V is because they are extremely small in power levels compared tu what we are used to in the city.
Hope this answers your question
----------------------------------------------------
solar pond pumps 04-18-10
http://www.siliconsolar.com/solar-fountain-pumps.html
How high is the waterfall and how many gallons per minute (gpm) do you need? If either of those answers are large, it will require an expensive pump and lots of solar panels to meet your head and flow requirements.
If you are trying to lift under 12', and about 3gpm, the Shurflo pump might do it for you. It's just over $100 for the pump, but then you'd need to buy the solar panel for around $500.
http://www.altestore.com/store/Solar-Wat…
Some of the less expensive options you may find elsewhere may not have enough power to pump the water up for the waterfall, they may only have about 1' or 2' of head capability .
Source(s):
AltE Store - http://www.altestore.com/store/
----------------------------------------------------------------
I recommend grunfos or sunpumps.
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/list…
The pumps on our site are probably a little large for your application, but if you give us a call we are glad to quote you on a pump and corresponding panel to power it. (877-337-2490)
This one wont run a waterfall but it is a cheap and simple kit:
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/cate…
Hope that helps.
---------------------------------------------------------
What is the wattage of the pump?
How many hours will the pump be running?
How many amp hours are in the battery?
How many hours of sunlight are you going to get per day?
If the pump is ran for 10 hours at 50 watts you have 500 watts.
If the battery has a 100 amp hour rating you would have 1200 watts in battery power. So about two hours and the battery is so dead it will not be able to recharge. Never run a battery under 50% discharge. So you will get one hour from the battery.
Your 45 watt solar panel will only be putting about 80% of it's rated power at most into the battery. That would mean it would need 13.8 hours of sun light to put the charge back in the battery.
At a wild guess with what you have you might get lucky and keep the pump running for about 10 hours but you woud have to let it charge for the next day or two to get the battery charged back up.
Don't forget to put a charge controller on the system or you could over charge the battery. You can get one with a low voltage disconnect so it will turn off the pump when the battery gets too low.
Now if it is an AC pump you will have to add an inverter. That takes any where from 10% to 20% more power. So to me you should get three of those 45 watt panels and a good controller and maybe a couple of large deep cycle batteries.
If you pump only uses 5 watts in power to run. You are over powered already.
Good luck,
-----------------------------------------------------------
For the water pump you need a DC pump and switch - grundfos or lorentz pumps are really good
--------------------------------------------------------------
How high is the waterfall and how many gallons per minute (gpm) do you need? If either of those answers are large, it will require an expensive pump and lots of solar panels to meet your head and flow requirements.
If you are trying to lift under 12', and about 3gpm, the Shurflo pump might do it for you. It's just over $100 for the pump, but then you'd need to buy the solar panel for around $500.
http://www.altestore.com/store/Solar-Wat…
Some of the less expensive options you may find elsewhere may not have enough power to pump the water up for the waterfall, they may only have about 1' or 2' of head capability .
Source(s):
AltE Store - http://www.altestore.com/store/
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I recommend grunfos or sunpumps.
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/list…
The pumps on our site are probably a little large for your application, but if you give us a call we are glad to quote you on a pump and corresponding panel to power it. (877-337-2490)
This one wont run a waterfall but it is a cheap and simple kit:
http://www.aurorapower.net/products/cate…
Hope that helps.
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What is the wattage of the pump?
How many hours will the pump be running?
How many amp hours are in the battery?
How many hours of sunlight are you going to get per day?
If the pump is ran for 10 hours at 50 watts you have 500 watts.
If the battery has a 100 amp hour rating you would have 1200 watts in battery power. So about two hours and the battery is so dead it will not be able to recharge. Never run a battery under 50% discharge. So you will get one hour from the battery.
Your 45 watt solar panel will only be putting about 80% of it's rated power at most into the battery. That would mean it would need 13.8 hours of sun light to put the charge back in the battery.
At a wild guess with what you have you might get lucky and keep the pump running for about 10 hours but you woud have to let it charge for the next day or two to get the battery charged back up.
Don't forget to put a charge controller on the system or you could over charge the battery. You can get one with a low voltage disconnect so it will turn off the pump when the battery gets too low.
Now if it is an AC pump you will have to add an inverter. That takes any where from 10% to 20% more power. So to me you should get three of those 45 watt panels and a good controller and maybe a couple of large deep cycle batteries.
If you pump only uses 5 watts in power to run. You are over powered already.
Good luck,
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For the water pump you need a DC pump and switch - grundfos or lorentz pumps are really good
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pond liner 04-18-10
What pond liner, underlayment, and pump would be suitable for a pond 20 X 20 feet that is 3 feet deep?
Sand is an excellent underlayment as it can be sculpted to your preference, and the sand becomes hard as a rock after water has filled in the pond. sand will also cover hard dirt and rocks so they won't puncture your liner. The liner should be a thick plastic such as bisqueen, because plastic takes approximately 120 years to dissolve in our enviroment this would withstand the life of the pond. Your looking at 600 gallons of water to circulate so you would need a pump to handle that capacity, which you need to circulate or the pond becomes stagnant and oxygen will not flow through the water to support underwater growth such as plants or fish. xxx
............................................................................
liner to liner --
bought my liner at Home Depot. they also sell what they call adhearing edging tape This will basically "adhear" one liner to the other.
I will tell you however, when you put the two together, be sure to over lap the two by about a foot - two feet! and tape on both sides. They also have what smells like a PVC glue. You have to scuff up the rubber bottom side and top side smear this God awful smelly glue and let it dry. Put the two pieces together and tape the edges (I did both sides it isn't required.
The pond is still holding water!
................................................................................
Sand is an excellent underlayment as it can be sculpted to your preference, and the sand becomes hard as a rock after water has filled in the pond. sand will also cover hard dirt and rocks so they won't puncture your liner. The liner should be a thick plastic such as bisqueen, because plastic takes approximately 120 years to dissolve in our enviroment this would withstand the life of the pond. Your looking at 600 gallons of water to circulate so you would need a pump to handle that capacity, which you need to circulate or the pond becomes stagnant and oxygen will not flow through the water to support underwater growth such as plants or fish. xxx
............................................................................
liner to liner --
bought my liner at Home Depot. they also sell what they call adhearing edging tape This will basically "adhear" one liner to the other.
I will tell you however, when you put the two together, be sure to over lap the two by about a foot - two feet! and tape on both sides. They also have what smells like a PVC glue. You have to scuff up the rubber bottom side and top side smear this God awful smelly glue and let it dry. Put the two pieces together and tape the edges (I did both sides it isn't required.
The pond is still holding water!
................................................................................
ponds in winter 04-18-10
Do i turn my fountains, pumps, and filters off for the winter in my koi pond?
hi,
my pond just started to freeze over. i ordered and airation kit and deicer. do i turn off my pump and filters? thats what i thought i do but then i realized won't the water just turn to sh$@ until spring?
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leave it all running it will keep filtering even when freezing over and the algae wont over run the pond i have done this for 2 years and my grandad did this for 30 years+
Source(s):
fish breeder/keeper for 20 years tropical and cold water fish
1 year ago
hi,
my pond just started to freeze over. i ordered and airation kit and deicer. do i turn off my pump and filters? thats what i thought i do but then i realized won't the water just turn to sh$@ until spring?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
leave it all running it will keep filtering even when freezing over and the algae wont over run the pond i have done this for 2 years and my grandad did this for 30 years+
Source(s):
fish breeder/keeper for 20 years tropical and cold water fish
1 year ago
pond bio filter 05-10-2010
http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93019
basically the less water, and more oxygen the better. An enclosed, pump fed filter is the worse kind of bio filter there is, an open top filter, such as a barrel full of some kind of media is better. Add an oxygen supply to this barrel filter with an air diffuser on the bottom powered by an air pump is even better.
basically the less water, and more oxygen the better. An enclosed, pump fed filter is the worse kind of bio filter there is, an open top filter, such as a barrel full of some kind of media is better. Add an oxygen supply to this barrel filter with an air diffuser on the bottom powered by an air pump is even better.
pond pumps construction 04-28-10
I am sorry, but this will be a long answer. I installed a pond/waterfall and these are my "Geez, I wish I'd known that!" tips:
1. Create a pond ecosystem. Very simple: water plants (water lilies are great!) and fish (the cheap goldfish from Wal-Mart are fine!). That's the way nature does it. Fish eat algae, plants provide oxygen and shade. Cost? About $20.
2. Get a biofilter. Don't panic, it isn't complicated. Easiest way? Find a pond store. A biofilter uses a filtering medium (mine has foam blocks) with beneficial bacteria that decrease the amount of algae in your pond. Cost? Depending on size, less than $50.
3. What's "beneficial bacteria"? These are added, in liquid or powder form, to your pond. They keep your pond from being mucky. Cost? $20-25.
4. For extra protection for your pump, buy 2 "plant baskets" from the pond section of your home & garden store. Place the pump in one basket, place the other basket on top, cut a hole for your tubing, and use twist-ties to wire the baskets together. This is a cheap, effective way to keep muck from clogging the pump.
Most pond kits come with inadequate pumps and too-small tubing. Your pump should circulate the approximate volume of your pond hourly. My pump for my 800-gallon pond is an 800+ GPH pump. As an extreme last measure, consider replacing your pump and tubing. It's expensive.
All this sounds complicated and expensive, but most are one-time costs. And if you do the above, you won't have an algae-ridden, mucky stinky green pond that you have to climb into and clean out every 2 weeks.
Good luck!
1. Create a pond ecosystem. Very simple: water plants (water lilies are great!) and fish (the cheap goldfish from Wal-Mart are fine!). That's the way nature does it. Fish eat algae, plants provide oxygen and shade. Cost? About $20.
2. Get a biofilter. Don't panic, it isn't complicated. Easiest way? Find a pond store. A biofilter uses a filtering medium (mine has foam blocks) with beneficial bacteria that decrease the amount of algae in your pond. Cost? Depending on size, less than $50.
3. What's "beneficial bacteria"? These are added, in liquid or powder form, to your pond. They keep your pond from being mucky. Cost? $20-25.
4. For extra protection for your pump, buy 2 "plant baskets" from the pond section of your home & garden store. Place the pump in one basket, place the other basket on top, cut a hole for your tubing, and use twist-ties to wire the baskets together. This is a cheap, effective way to keep muck from clogging the pump.
Most pond kits come with inadequate pumps and too-small tubing. Your pump should circulate the approximate volume of your pond hourly. My pump for my 800-gallon pond is an 800+ GPH pump. As an extreme last measure, consider replacing your pump and tubing. It's expensive.
All this sounds complicated and expensive, but most are one-time costs. And if you do the above, you won't have an algae-ridden, mucky stinky green pond that you have to climb into and clean out every 2 weeks.
Good luck!
pond external pump 07-30-10
plumbing
external pics
pond external pump
external pond pump
pool external pump
bottom drain
which pump
pond market
pumps info
PONDMASTER , Smartpond, Pentair and Little Giant
The best ones are the mag-drive variety. You really need to know about what flow rate you need and the height the water needs to be pumped.
they are magnetic drive rarely, if ever break only need to replace the impellers no oil to leak out and worry about.
http://www.pondmaster.com/
.........................................................
Some of the pumps we've tested and approved, are listed below:
Supreme Pond Master Pumps, Sequence Pumps
Cyprio Pumps (Some Models-email for specifics), Dolphin Pumps
Pumps we don't like:
Harbor Freight, Simmer, Cal
......................................................
external pics
pond external pump
external pond pump
pool external pump
bottom drain
which pump
pond market
pumps info
PONDMASTER , Smartpond, Pentair and Little Giant
The best ones are the mag-drive variety. You really need to know about what flow rate you need and the height the water needs to be pumped.
they are magnetic drive rarely, if ever break only need to replace the impellers no oil to leak out and worry about.
http://www.pondmaster.com/
.........................................................
Some of the pumps we've tested and approved, are listed below:
Supreme Pond Master Pumps, Sequence Pumps
Cyprio Pumps (Some Models-email for specifics), Dolphin Pumps
Pumps we don't like:
Harbor Freight, Simmer, Cal
......................................................
pond filter leaks 05-08-2010
First go to a Plumbing supply store and buy a bung hole fitting,yes it's called a bung hole.they come in all sizes 1/2 or 3/4 inch will probable do. It should come as a self sealing fitting.then from it you can run your pipe.
2 years ago
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Purchase a bulk-head fitting with the size piping you will be using. Use a hole-saw to cut the hole. The bulk-head fitting has a rubber seal to prevent leaks.
2 years ago
--------------------------
If you go to a plumbing supply, ask for a Dresser coupling. It looks like a band clamp with a rubber lining, it's made for fixing leaks in water lines, you'll have to know the outside diameter of the pipe.
If it's only a drain line (no pressure), you can use a Fernco- it's basically a rubber boot with clamps on the ends. It won't take the pressure of a supply line, though.
Good Luck!
10 months ago
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The 3M brand silicone sealant for auto glass (make sure you get the one in the red box) does an awesome job - it's what we used to build our waterfall with, and it adhered EPDM liner to rocks, liner to plastic tubs, etc., etc.
-------------------
I would recommend using contact cement. You apply a layer on each piece and let it dry. Cover as much of the sidewalls as possible. Start from the bottom and work your way up to the top. When the two glue surfaces make contact they don't let go, so work carefully and slow to get the liner where you want.
1 month ago
Vote as Best Answer
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Yes, get a butyl repair kit, but you won't necessarily have to drain the whole pond - just reduce the water level to about an inch below the lowest hole. Then carefully clean the liner, dry it off, and follow instructions on the repair kit. Let it set for at least 24 hours before refilling the pond.
Get a Blagdon repair kit from http://www.swelluk.com/pond/pond-paint-a… - only £5.29. If you have several holes, you might need 2 kits.
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There is no paste, but there are patches that you can just attach. The patches are sticky on one side, so get the liner dry and put the patch on. I often help it seal to the liner by blowing it with a hair dryer.
http://www.gardenponds.com/liner.htm
Source(s):
--------------------------------
2 years ago
---------------------
Purchase a bulk-head fitting with the size piping you will be using. Use a hole-saw to cut the hole. The bulk-head fitting has a rubber seal to prevent leaks.
2 years ago
--------------------------
If you go to a plumbing supply, ask for a Dresser coupling. It looks like a band clamp with a rubber lining, it's made for fixing leaks in water lines, you'll have to know the outside diameter of the pipe.
If it's only a drain line (no pressure), you can use a Fernco- it's basically a rubber boot with clamps on the ends. It won't take the pressure of a supply line, though.
Good Luck!
10 months ago
-------------------------------
The 3M brand silicone sealant for auto glass (make sure you get the one in the red box) does an awesome job - it's what we used to build our waterfall with, and it adhered EPDM liner to rocks, liner to plastic tubs, etc., etc.
-------------------
I would recommend using contact cement. You apply a layer on each piece and let it dry. Cover as much of the sidewalls as possible. Start from the bottom and work your way up to the top. When the two glue surfaces make contact they don't let go, so work carefully and slow to get the liner where you want.
1 month ago
Vote as Best Answer
--------------------------------
Yes, get a butyl repair kit, but you won't necessarily have to drain the whole pond - just reduce the water level to about an inch below the lowest hole. Then carefully clean the liner, dry it off, and follow instructions on the repair kit. Let it set for at least 24 hours before refilling the pond.
Get a Blagdon repair kit from http://www.swelluk.com/pond/pond-paint-a… - only £5.29. If you have several holes, you might need 2 kits.
-------------------------
There is no paste, but there are patches that you can just attach. The patches are sticky on one side, so get the liner dry and put the patch on. I often help it seal to the liner by blowing it with a hair dryer.
http://www.gardenponds.com/liner.htm
Source(s):
--------------------------------
Framed Ponds 05-27-10
http://www.pondarmor.com/blog/?p=7
..............................................................
Vertical sides will maximise water volume in koi pools but a 20° slope (i.e. the sides will come in 7.5cm (3 inches) for every 23 cm (9 inches) of depth) will mean that a flexible liner can be used without reinforcing the pool sides.
...............................................................
..............................................................
Vertical sides will maximise water volume in koi pools but a 20° slope (i.e. the sides will come in 7.5cm (3 inches) for every 23 cm (9 inches) of depth) will mean that a flexible liner can be used without reinforcing the pool sides.
...............................................................
pool leaf cover 04-08-10
Leaf Covers
It's been many years since I got tired of all the maintence work to maintain a pool, and thus quit buying houses with, or installing pools.
Back then, we didn't have the net leaf covers and the leaves accumulated on the vinyl cover.
Using trial and error, we developed the following procedure to clear leaves from the cover.
1. Do not allow a lot of leaves to accumulate. Do this by removing the leaves several times over the winter season.
2. IF there is not an excessive amount of leaves, we would gather 3 or 4 family members to do the work.
3..One person would be stationed at each of two corners on one side of the cover, and the other 1 or 2 would get on the opposite side of the pool to pull on ropes attached to the first side of the pool cover at the 1/3rd points between the two "manned" corners.
4. Then, simultaneously we would pull the first edge of the cover back "over" the rest of the cover resulting in the leaves being "rolled" along until the entire cover, with leaves, was off the pool.
5. We then "dumped" the leaves off of the cover, and put it back.
When leaf blowers [first electrically powered, and later gasoline powered] became available, we would keep most leaves blown off on a regular basis throughout pool the "off" season.
IF you don't allow an excessive accumulation of leaves [and rainwater] then removing the cover with a few leaves is not that difficult.
Another thing that helped immensely was to remove a lot of the accumulated water from the top of the cover. We first did this with a small, cheap electric drill motor powered pump. This was a very slow process so we then began using the pool pump & vacuum hose [with a filter "basket" installed over the suction end to prevent picking up a lot of leaves] to remove as much of the water from on top of the pool cover as possible
Another way of "lightening" the load is to first use a lightweight plastic leaf rake to remove all the leaves that can be reached from around the pool edges.
The key to removing the leaf cover(s) is to remove as much weight from on top of the cover(s) as is possibe, AND to gather enough "muscle" as you can find to pull the cover .
A good source of muscle/labor when you are ready to remove the cover(s) is to have a work/"beer and burger" party and enlist the help of a bunch of friends and neighbors!!!!! It works like a charm!
Source(s): 50+ years experience in the Construction and Handyman trades, AND LOTS of DIY projects for myself, family, friends, and nieghbors. 3 days ago - by poolman Member since: July 21, 2008
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i own a pool company.and the way i do this is i use a nozzle to push the leaves and extra water off the pool cover.then once the leaves are off you can sweep them up. after this is done you can roll up the pool cover with one extra person
Source(s): spotless pools richland hills texas 3 days ago
-------------------------------------------
It's been many years since I got tired of all the maintence work to maintain a pool, and thus quit buying houses with, or installing pools.
Back then, we didn't have the net leaf covers and the leaves accumulated on the vinyl cover.
Using trial and error, we developed the following procedure to clear leaves from the cover.
1. Do not allow a lot of leaves to accumulate. Do this by removing the leaves several times over the winter season.
2. IF there is not an excessive amount of leaves, we would gather 3 or 4 family members to do the work.
3..One person would be stationed at each of two corners on one side of the cover, and the other 1 or 2 would get on the opposite side of the pool to pull on ropes attached to the first side of the pool cover at the 1/3rd points between the two "manned" corners.
4. Then, simultaneously we would pull the first edge of the cover back "over" the rest of the cover resulting in the leaves being "rolled" along until the entire cover, with leaves, was off the pool.
5. We then "dumped" the leaves off of the cover, and put it back.
When leaf blowers [first electrically powered, and later gasoline powered] became available, we would keep most leaves blown off on a regular basis throughout pool the "off" season.
IF you don't allow an excessive accumulation of leaves [and rainwater] then removing the cover with a few leaves is not that difficult.
Another thing that helped immensely was to remove a lot of the accumulated water from the top of the cover. We first did this with a small, cheap electric drill motor powered pump. This was a very slow process so we then began using the pool pump & vacuum hose [with a filter "basket" installed over the suction end to prevent picking up a lot of leaves] to remove as much of the water from on top of the pool cover as possible
Another way of "lightening" the load is to first use a lightweight plastic leaf rake to remove all the leaves that can be reached from around the pool edges.
The key to removing the leaf cover(s) is to remove as much weight from on top of the cover(s) as is possibe, AND to gather enough "muscle" as you can find to pull the cover .
A good source of muscle/labor when you are ready to remove the cover(s) is to have a work/"beer and burger" party and enlist the help of a bunch of friends and neighbors!!!!! It works like a charm!
Source(s): 50+ years experience in the Construction and Handyman trades, AND LOTS of DIY projects for myself, family, friends, and nieghbors. 3 days ago - by poolman Member since: July 21, 2008
-----------------------------------------------
i own a pool company.and the way i do this is i use a nozzle to push the leaves and extra water off the pool cover.then once the leaves are off you can sweep them up. after this is done you can roll up the pool cover with one extra person
Source(s): spotless pools richland hills texas 3 days ago
-------------------------------------------
pond drain and filters 05-08-10
You don't "have" to have a bottom drain, but they make maintenance much easier and, I think, contribute to better water quality and health of your fish. Plus, you can hide your pump easier that way, too.
I have had two 500-750 gallon ponds, and niether had a bottom drain. But, we were constantly cleaning muck out of the pump bucket and the submersible pumps were an eyesore. Also, you usually can't get submersible pumps with much head pressure to run a good-sized waterfall.
We now have a 3,000 gallon pond with a bottom drain and an externa pump, and it is SO much easier to clean. As waste drifts to the bottom of the pond (it is about 3 feet deep, below ground level, at its deepest), the solid waste material gets sucked into the drain and deposited in our 500 gallon veggie filter. The muck settles in the veggie filter where the water iris just thrive on it. Their roots scrub the water clean, where it then falls down our 8' waterfall and back into the pond. The pump is hidden in a cedar box on our nearby deck, that appears to be (and is used as) just a bench.
We clean the leaf basket out of the pump about every 2-3 weeks, squirt the filter pad of the skimmer and empty its leaf basket about once a month, and clean our veggie filter once a year, is all. And, we do virtually NO maintenance to the pond itself - the bottom drain and the skimmer and the filter do it all. We just add any water lost from evaporation. When enough muck builds up on the bottom of the pond, we'll drain it most of the way and clean it out, but that's once a year at the most, too. More like every other year.
As to your other question about river rock on the bottom of the pond, there seems to be two schools of thought on this issue. One is that the rocks do allow for a greater accumulation of muck and gasses, etc. The other is that its simply a greater surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize and so is actually helpful.
My personal experience is that rock-bottomed ponds are MUCH more maintenance intensive - the muck really does accumulate and it has to be cleaned out more often than ponds with just liner in them, and believe me - THAT is a nasty job (one year I got contact dermatitis up to my elbows from getting in their and cleaning it out - it took months to go away!). I tend to think that whatever benefits you get out of the extra bacteria are more than cancelled out by the extra muck, the smell as the gasses escape, and the associated extra work in maintenance.
One other thing to consider: do you want a natural-appearing pond, or do you want to keep fish? The ponds I have seen locally with really big, fat, and happy koi, seem to be "liner only" ponds with rock coping and/or sides. The ones with rock bottoms may look more "natural," but the fish in them seem only to be "so-so." Fish will flash, i.e., rub themselves on the sides of the pond, etc., and rocks can scrape more scales and do more damage than will a plain EPDM liner.
Hope this helps. Feel free to e-mail me through my profile if you have any questions - good luck!
3 years ago
I have had two 500-750 gallon ponds, and niether had a bottom drain. But, we were constantly cleaning muck out of the pump bucket and the submersible pumps were an eyesore. Also, you usually can't get submersible pumps with much head pressure to run a good-sized waterfall.
We now have a 3,000 gallon pond with a bottom drain and an externa pump, and it is SO much easier to clean. As waste drifts to the bottom of the pond (it is about 3 feet deep, below ground level, at its deepest), the solid waste material gets sucked into the drain and deposited in our 500 gallon veggie filter. The muck settles in the veggie filter where the water iris just thrive on it. Their roots scrub the water clean, where it then falls down our 8' waterfall and back into the pond. The pump is hidden in a cedar box on our nearby deck, that appears to be (and is used as) just a bench.
We clean the leaf basket out of the pump about every 2-3 weeks, squirt the filter pad of the skimmer and empty its leaf basket about once a month, and clean our veggie filter once a year, is all. And, we do virtually NO maintenance to the pond itself - the bottom drain and the skimmer and the filter do it all. We just add any water lost from evaporation. When enough muck builds up on the bottom of the pond, we'll drain it most of the way and clean it out, but that's once a year at the most, too. More like every other year.
As to your other question about river rock on the bottom of the pond, there seems to be two schools of thought on this issue. One is that the rocks do allow for a greater accumulation of muck and gasses, etc. The other is that its simply a greater surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize and so is actually helpful.
My personal experience is that rock-bottomed ponds are MUCH more maintenance intensive - the muck really does accumulate and it has to be cleaned out more often than ponds with just liner in them, and believe me - THAT is a nasty job (one year I got contact dermatitis up to my elbows from getting in their and cleaning it out - it took months to go away!). I tend to think that whatever benefits you get out of the extra bacteria are more than cancelled out by the extra muck, the smell as the gasses escape, and the associated extra work in maintenance.
One other thing to consider: do you want a natural-appearing pond, or do you want to keep fish? The ponds I have seen locally with really big, fat, and happy koi, seem to be "liner only" ponds with rock coping and/or sides. The ones with rock bottoms may look more "natural," but the fish in them seem only to be "so-so." Fish will flash, i.e., rub themselves on the sides of the pond, etc., and rocks can scrape more scales and do more damage than will a plain EPDM liner.
Hope this helps. Feel free to e-mail me through my profile if you have any questions - good luck!
3 years ago
acrea size 10-26-10
208.71 ft x 208.71 ft, or 43,560 sq, ft. There are 640 acres in a square mile.
1. Abbr. a. or ac. A unit of area in the U.S. Customary System, used in land and sea floor measurement and equal to 160 square rods, 4,840 square yards, or 43,560 square feet.
An acre is commonly used to describe how much land a family owns, including farmland and land in suburbs where only a house is built. For instance, Farmer Bob owns 100 acres and gives his nephew Phil 20 acres of that 100 acres to build a house and start a family on.
1. Abbr. a. or ac. A unit of area in the U.S. Customary System, used in land and sea floor measurement and equal to 160 square rods, 4,840 square yards, or 43,560 square feet.
An acre is commonly used to describe how much land a family owns, including farmland and land in suburbs where only a house is built. For instance, Farmer Bob owns 100 acres and gives his nephew Phil 20 acres of that 100 acres to build a house and start a family on.
concrete fix 10-26-10
Concrete or Asphalt.
For concrete you want to get a saw and make a clean line by the crack to allow expansion and contraction Patch with a Silicone concrete mix. Seal the driveway and you can even paint it when done.
For Asphalt - there are patch kits at the home improvement store shovel in packaged cold-patch blacktop, leveling large areas with an iron rake. Compact the material with a rented tamper or the end of a 4-by-4. Add more material until the hole is slightly overfilled. Cover it with scrap plywood and drive over it.Then use a resurfacer.
For concrete you want to get a saw and make a clean line by the crack to allow expansion and contraction Patch with a Silicone concrete mix. Seal the driveway and you can even paint it when done.
For Asphalt - there are patch kits at the home improvement store shovel in packaged cold-patch blacktop, leveling large areas with an iron rake. Compact the material with a rented tamper or the end of a 4-by-4. Add more material until the hole is slightly overfilled. Cover it with scrap plywood and drive over it.Then use a resurfacer.
pond liner fix 2-12-11
how to fix
IF the liner is rubber, drain pond below break, clean the liner with soap and water, then rinse well...rub with alcohol to finish cleaning. Apply a patch of the liner with liner tape. Job will be complete. IF the liner is PVC, use PVC patch. YOur liner is salvagalbe, do not worry about having to replace it...but you must know where the leak is. good luck. Go to POND Shop to get the stuff you need. They have all this stuff to fix your pond with.
........................................................
seamer
glues & tapes
how to splice
........................................................
Yet one cannot escape from small repairs. For patching small holes and tears, a 6" single-sided tape can be used. Thoroughly clean the liner area using Coleman fuel or naphtha, and an abrasive pad. Wipe clean with a paper towel .Remove the paper backing and apply the tape smoothly, rolling to apply pressure evenly. Apply lap sealant to the tape edges for the final touch, and allow to dry for several hours before touching with water.
For joining two liners, thoroughly clean the liner splice areas with Coleman fuel or naphtha and an abrasive pad, and wipe clean with a paper towel. Apply the 3" double-sided tape to the top edge of one liner, and lay the bottom edge of the second liner directly on top. Apply the tape over the exposed edge of the splice with three inches on each side. Apply lap sealant and allow drying.
For best results while applying patches to repair liners, in the case of Polythene liners, clean liner with clean water and let dry before applying patch. For EPDM, clean liner with a rubber pad and clean water and let dry before applying patch. The main point is to remember not to use solvent or gasoline to clean the liner.
..........................................................................
IF the liner is rubber, drain pond below break, clean the liner with soap and water, then rinse well...rub with alcohol to finish cleaning. Apply a patch of the liner with liner tape. Job will be complete. IF the liner is PVC, use PVC patch. YOur liner is salvagalbe, do not worry about having to replace it...but you must know where the leak is. good luck. Go to POND Shop to get the stuff you need. They have all this stuff to fix your pond with.
........................................................
seamer
glues & tapes
how to splice
........................................................
Yet one cannot escape from small repairs. For patching small holes and tears, a 6" single-sided tape can be used. Thoroughly clean the liner area using Coleman fuel or naphtha, and an abrasive pad. Wipe clean with a paper towel .Remove the paper backing and apply the tape smoothly, rolling to apply pressure evenly. Apply lap sealant to the tape edges for the final touch, and allow to dry for several hours before touching with water.
For joining two liners, thoroughly clean the liner splice areas with Coleman fuel or naphtha and an abrasive pad, and wipe clean with a paper towel. Apply the 3" double-sided tape to the top edge of one liner, and lay the bottom edge of the second liner directly on top. Apply the tape over the exposed edge of the splice with three inches on each side. Apply lap sealant and allow drying.
For best results while applying patches to repair liners, in the case of Polythene liners, clean liner with clean water and let dry before applying patch. For EPDM, clean liner with a rubber pad and clean water and let dry before applying patch. The main point is to remember not to use solvent or gasoline to clean the liner.
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pond heaters & pumps 07-14-10
Should I use a heater and a pump at the same time?
Never operate the heater and pump at the same time. The heater is thermostatically controlled. If cold water is always moving by the thermostat, it never turns off. This uses a lot of electricity and never allows water to warm enough to be ice-free. A pump uses less electricity and can create interesting ice formations in the winter.
xxxxxx
Do I need to operate my filter in the winter?
A filter is not really necessary during the winter unless there are a lot of fish that stir the water. Remove the filter media for the winter months, operating the pump with a screen over the inlet or just an empty filter box. Scrape the inlet screen to clean as needed, maintaining full flow into the pump.
Never operate the heater and pump at the same time. The heater is thermostatically controlled. If cold water is always moving by the thermostat, it never turns off. This uses a lot of electricity and never allows water to warm enough to be ice-free. A pump uses less electricity and can create interesting ice formations in the winter.
xxxxxx
Do I need to operate my filter in the winter?
A filter is not really necessary during the winter unless there are a lot of fish that stir the water. Remove the filter media for the winter months, operating the pump with a screen over the inlet or just an empty filter box. Scrape the inlet screen to clean as needed, maintaining full flow into the pump.
raised ponds 07-14-10
Will an above ground pond survive the winter?
The above ground pond may be susceptible to freezing, but with sufficient water volume the trouble is minimal. A heater, or pump to move the water, is a good way to prevent excessive ice build-up. Patio ponds that are not heated must be disassembled before freezing weather to avoid splitting the pond sides. Large ponds of 150 gallons or more may be able to survive all but the harshest winter temperatures in hardiness Zone 6 (USDA).
The above ground pond may be susceptible to freezing, but with sufficient water volume the trouble is minimal. A heater, or pump to move the water, is a good way to prevent excessive ice build-up. Patio ponds that are not heated must be disassembled before freezing weather to avoid splitting the pond sides. Large ponds of 150 gallons or more may be able to survive all but the harshest winter temperatures in hardiness Zone 6 (USDA).
pond liners 07-14-10
firestone liners
In essence, butyl is a good middle-of-the-road choice. While other types of pond liners may fit your requirements more closely, it’s hard to go wrong with butyl, no matter what the climate, pond size or shape, or type of ground. You will, of course, have to pay more for this security than you will with PVC, but the trade-off you receive in longevity and reliability can be worth it.
Another type of rubber pond liner is EPDM, which uses a synthetic rubber instead of butyl. EPDM is slightly cheaper, and is stretchier and offers even more flexibility. Be aware, though, that a low-quality EPDM pond liner can poison the fish who live in the pond. This will not be a concern if you go with butyl.
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Rubber liners no matter how good they claim to be suck. And cement isnt harmful to your fish. Cement just gives it a higher PH and most fish will adapt. If your worried about that, they sell special sealers for ponds. Cement is the best way to go though if you want something permanet and lasts longer. You want to have some help, it only works if you can pour the concrete all at the same time so you get one solid piece. Make it atleast 4 inches thick. Be sure to put chicken wire or something to make it strong. Pour the bottom first, when your done smoothing that out, work your way up. make sure the cement isnt too wet so you can get it to stick on the way up. the more of a slope you have the easier it will be to form the walls. The next day when the concrete is starting to cure, wet it, this will help it cure. Keep wetting daily. It should cure in about 2 weeks to a month depending on the temperature outside. dont fill it with water until it is fully cured. If you want you can seal it to prevent the cement from changing the ph in your pond, Sherman williams sells a sealer for potable water tanks, thats what you will need to seal it with. If it ever cracks, you can seal the cracks with a caulk made for aqariums, usually sold at aquarium stores. Good look, and dont be scared of all the hard work, it really pays off. I hate having to change rubber liners all the time just cuz of roots messing them up, or the sun making them brittle. And those sub-liners dont make much of a difference.
3 years ago
Go buy a good piece of EPDM roof rubber for a liner. To get technical you can not make a pond from cement. You can use concrete, which is a mixture of cement, sand and aggregate. But you would also need to use steel reinforcement. And if your in a cold climate you half to allow for freeze-thaw, and expansion and contraction. I think in the long run you would be wasting money, I have EPDM roof rubber in my pond and its been in for over 4 years with 10 tons of river rock placed on top of it. Or you could talk to a swimming pool contractor. They use Gunite, which is a concrete that is sprayed onto steel reinforcement. There are only three things for sure with concrete #1 It comes in a truck, #2 It gets hard you hope, #3 It cracks
...............................................................................................
In essence, butyl is a good middle-of-the-road choice. While other types of pond liners may fit your requirements more closely, it’s hard to go wrong with butyl, no matter what the climate, pond size or shape, or type of ground. You will, of course, have to pay more for this security than you will with PVC, but the trade-off you receive in longevity and reliability can be worth it.
Another type of rubber pond liner is EPDM, which uses a synthetic rubber instead of butyl. EPDM is slightly cheaper, and is stretchier and offers even more flexibility. Be aware, though, that a low-quality EPDM pond liner can poison the fish who live in the pond. This will not be a concern if you go with butyl.
.......................................................................................................
Rubber liners no matter how good they claim to be suck. And cement isnt harmful to your fish. Cement just gives it a higher PH and most fish will adapt. If your worried about that, they sell special sealers for ponds. Cement is the best way to go though if you want something permanet and lasts longer. You want to have some help, it only works if you can pour the concrete all at the same time so you get one solid piece. Make it atleast 4 inches thick. Be sure to put chicken wire or something to make it strong. Pour the bottom first, when your done smoothing that out, work your way up. make sure the cement isnt too wet so you can get it to stick on the way up. the more of a slope you have the easier it will be to form the walls. The next day when the concrete is starting to cure, wet it, this will help it cure. Keep wetting daily. It should cure in about 2 weeks to a month depending on the temperature outside. dont fill it with water until it is fully cured. If you want you can seal it to prevent the cement from changing the ph in your pond, Sherman williams sells a sealer for potable water tanks, thats what you will need to seal it with. If it ever cracks, you can seal the cracks with a caulk made for aqariums, usually sold at aquarium stores. Good look, and dont be scared of all the hard work, it really pays off. I hate having to change rubber liners all the time just cuz of roots messing them up, or the sun making them brittle. And those sub-liners dont make much of a difference.
3 years ago
Go buy a good piece of EPDM roof rubber for a liner. To get technical you can not make a pond from cement. You can use concrete, which is a mixture of cement, sand and aggregate. But you would also need to use steel reinforcement. And if your in a cold climate you half to allow for freeze-thaw, and expansion and contraction. I think in the long run you would be wasting money, I have EPDM roof rubber in my pond and its been in for over 4 years with 10 tons of river rock placed on top of it. Or you could talk to a swimming pool contractor. They use Gunite, which is a concrete that is sprayed onto steel reinforcement. There are only three things for sure with concrete #1 It comes in a truck, #2 It gets hard you hope, #3 It cracks
...............................................................................................
glue / tape 07-14-2010
framing project, use a product called PL-400 or PL premium. The premium is a polyurethane caulk adhesive. Both of these products are nearly impossible to pull apart once adhesive has dried. For trim projects, use gorilla glue as already mentioned. For exterior trim joints(yes even treated), use a product called Geocel. It is a 50 year ultra stretchable caulk. Comes in a large variety of colors, and has unreal holding power. I had to replace 4 Eagle windows on a house where the trim was redwood. The wood trim (redwood) had been "glued in" with geocel and came off in small strips. (I was amazed, could have made a million toothpicks that day) Geocel is about 6 dollars a tube, PL-400 in the Large Framing Caulk Guns run about 10 dollars each, and PL premium is around 7 dollars
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liner glues
........................................................
Yes, it is called Liner Splice tape...It's 3" wide and 25' long...your overlap on the liner must be at least 6 " wide. Firestone also makes a product which I use as well. Search the web for the best prices.
Pond Construction : Liner Splice Tape
http://www.pondbiz.com/home/pb1/page_687…
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/pon…
They also have this which using both products makes a better seal.
Firestone Lap Sealant is specifically designed edge treatment used to ensure a watertight seal while seaming two PondGard EPDM liners. This adhesive caulk serves as a final precaution against leaks and is applied to the outer edge of a seam. Firestone Lap Sealant applies easily using a caulk gun. Made in the USA.
http://www.msponds.com/prod133.html
The most important part of the splice is to make sure all overlap seams are CLEAN, and no wrinkles in the overlap ( lay completely flat) and follow the directons on the LABELS....I'ts not that hard.
.................................................................................
......................................................
liner glues
........................................................
Yes, it is called Liner Splice tape...It's 3" wide and 25' long...your overlap on the liner must be at least 6 " wide. Firestone also makes a product which I use as well. Search the web for the best prices.
Pond Construction : Liner Splice Tape
http://www.pondbiz.com/home/pb1/page_687…
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/pon…
They also have this which using both products makes a better seal.
Firestone Lap Sealant is specifically designed edge treatment used to ensure a watertight seal while seaming two PondGard EPDM liners. This adhesive caulk serves as a final precaution against leaks and is applied to the outer edge of a seam. Firestone Lap Sealant applies easily using a caulk gun. Made in the USA.
http://www.msponds.com/prod133.html
The most important part of the splice is to make sure all overlap seams are CLEAN, and no wrinkles in the overlap ( lay completely flat) and follow the directons on the LABELS....I'ts not that hard.
.................................................................................
pond pump solar 02-10-11
Solar pump technology is improving yearly. Oase now makes solar pumps that I get few, if any, complaints about. They do not make pumps that push hundreds of gallons per hour of water yet, but I think the day is coming. The pump draws the water through a filter if you choose to have one.
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http://www.siliconsolar.com/solar-founta…
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http://www.siliconsolar.com/solar-founta…
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Pond Construction Frame 04-05-10
skippys pond construction
EPDM 45mil rubber
10 and 20 foot wide x 30' + long
frame in your pond with 2"x6" boards stood on end about 12 inches back from the lip and secured into the ground with 1/2 inch conduit pipes driven into the ground behind the boards, this makes a nice barrier where you can bring the liner up and over the boards where it can be secured by screwing a few slats of wood to the outside of the boards wedging the liner in-between. Also, a couple of other benefits of this design is that you create a under water shelf where you can put bog plants etc. and since the water when full, is actually higher than the surrounding ground by 4 to 6 inches it softens the sides of your pond and looks more natural.
1/4" layer of wet newspapers, it will stick to the side walls and will not blow around
pond gallons by taking the length X width X average depth X 7.5. You noticed we said estimate and the reason is the average depth measurement.
GPH... Gallons Per Hour = pump water from one place to another, usually this is uphill. The head height is where the water ends up. The height the pump has to pump the water.
xxx
EPDM 45mil rubber
10 and 20 foot wide x 30' + long
frame in your pond with 2"x6" boards stood on end about 12 inches back from the lip and secured into the ground with 1/2 inch conduit pipes driven into the ground behind the boards, this makes a nice barrier where you can bring the liner up and over the boards where it can be secured by screwing a few slats of wood to the outside of the boards wedging the liner in-between. Also, a couple of other benefits of this design is that you create a under water shelf where you can put bog plants etc. and since the water when full, is actually higher than the surrounding ground by 4 to 6 inches it softens the sides of your pond and looks more natural.
1/4" layer of wet newspapers, it will stick to the side walls and will not blow around
pond gallons by taking the length X width X average depth X 7.5. You noticed we said estimate and the reason is the average depth measurement.
GPH... Gallons Per Hour = pump water from one place to another, usually this is uphill. The head height is where the water ends up. The height the pump has to pump the water.
xxx
Pond Cleaning 02-10-11
Before you go and rent a pump to empty your pond check out other ways of cleaning.
Places like below rent electric vacs for pond cleaning. You should always empty part of your pond every year or other year to add fresh water
http://www.pondmarket.com/plants.htm
http://pondmarket.com/catalog_ebook.htm
PondMarket.com E-Book Download
The Splash : Our Popular Newsletter
http://www.pondmarket.com/on-line_news_l…
PS sign up for free monthly online news letter they have lots of sales and water garden tips.
.................OR ............................
You can buy one like the one below.
But shop around first....I paid$279 rather than $500...
http://www.pondsonline.com/pondovac.htm
***********Or one like this***************
................Selection of 2 choices
http://www.pondmarket.com/store/index.cf…
http://www.azponds.com/pondovac.html
Laguna Pond Vac provides a fast and convenient way to clean your pond. The vacuum is powered by water and does not require electricity. Simply attach it to a garden hose and the control valve allows you to adjust the water flowing through the vacuum. The kit includes a Power Vac attachment which collects dirt and debris at the bottom of the pond and a Hydro Brush attachment for scrubbing and cleaning. The kit comes complete with a filter bag and an extension pole.
Model Name Laguna Pond Vac
Application Pond Vac
Shipping FREE!
Price $34.95
.............Always use this .....................
To break down sludge and crystal clear your water................
http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.…
.................................................................................
.................................................................................
How do you get rid of algae from a garden pond?
We've come back from our holidays to find out small garden pond THICK with algae. We've got some plant in and around the pond and a few small fish, but there is NO way the fish we have will survive if we don't get rid of the algae asap.
=
Remove what you can and then dump in a quart of hydrogen peroxide. Your blanketweed will go away. To learn how to keep other algae under control, read my article:
http://www.pondlady.com/Articles/pondalg…
The main things that Algae needs to grow are light, nutrients and warmth. If you restrict the light and nutrients then it will not be able to flourish. Any waste, such as dead vegetation or animal manure, such as fish droppings, will break down into nutrients that will make it grow - thus if you minimise such waste, by clearing off dead vegetation and not allowing it to rot in the water, will reduce nutrient levels. Also, check that there's no run-off water entering the pond from your garden, as this will carry nutrients within it. Look out in autumn for fallen leaves etc, and prevent these rotting, as they will feed algae next year.
............................................................................
............................................................................
Places like below rent electric vacs for pond cleaning. You should always empty part of your pond every year or other year to add fresh water
http://www.pondmarket.com/plants.htm
http://pondmarket.com/catalog_ebook.htm
PondMarket.com E-Book Download
The Splash : Our Popular Newsletter
http://www.pondmarket.com/on-line_news_l…
PS sign up for free monthly online news letter they have lots of sales and water garden tips.
.................OR ............................
You can buy one like the one below.
But shop around first....I paid$279 rather than $500...
http://www.pondsonline.com/pondovac.htm
***********Or one like this***************
................Selection of 2 choices
http://www.pondmarket.com/store/index.cf…
http://www.azponds.com/pondovac.html
Laguna Pond Vac provides a fast and convenient way to clean your pond. The vacuum is powered by water and does not require electricity. Simply attach it to a garden hose and the control valve allows you to adjust the water flowing through the vacuum. The kit includes a Power Vac attachment which collects dirt and debris at the bottom of the pond and a Hydro Brush attachment for scrubbing and cleaning. The kit comes complete with a filter bag and an extension pole.
Model Name Laguna Pond Vac
Application Pond Vac
Shipping FREE!
Price $34.95
.............Always use this .....................
To break down sludge and crystal clear your water................
http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.…
.................................................................................
.................................................................................
How do you get rid of algae from a garden pond?
We've come back from our holidays to find out small garden pond THICK with algae. We've got some plant in and around the pond and a few small fish, but there is NO way the fish we have will survive if we don't get rid of the algae asap.
=
Remove what you can and then dump in a quart of hydrogen peroxide. Your blanketweed will go away. To learn how to keep other algae under control, read my article:
http://www.pondlady.com/Articles/pondalg…
The main things that Algae needs to grow are light, nutrients and warmth. If you restrict the light and nutrients then it will not be able to flourish. Any waste, such as dead vegetation or animal manure, such as fish droppings, will break down into nutrients that will make it grow - thus if you minimise such waste, by clearing off dead vegetation and not allowing it to rot in the water, will reduce nutrient levels. Also, check that there's no run-off water entering the pond from your garden, as this will carry nutrients within it. Look out in autumn for fallen leaves etc, and prevent these rotting, as they will feed algae next year.
............................................................................
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